Here are some of the most frequently asked appliance
repair questions. Maybe your question is answered here.
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Here are some of the most frequently asked appliance repair
questions. Maybe your question is answered here. If you find this
FAQ helpful, we would appreciate a NOTE
from you.
If you do not find your answer here, check out the Diagnosis
Tips.
The water on my WASHER will not cut off and the tub overflows.
It all depends on if the water will stop flowing into the
washer when you turn off the timer. If not and the only way
you can get the water to stop flowing is to turn off the water
spigot, the water valve will need to be replaced.
If the water will cut off when the timer is turned off, then
you may have a bad water level switch. The water level switch
controls the water level, and when it detects that the tub has
enough water, it's job is to cut the water off AND start the
agitate cycle. If the water level switch does not detect a full
load of water, it will never start the agitate cycle. You most
likely have a defective water level switch.
However you could also have a pin hole in the vacuum tube that
goes from the tub to the water level switch. As the machine
is filling, pressure backs up through the vacuum tube, and when
the pressure is great enough, the switch cuts the water off
and starts the agitate cycle. If there is a pin hole in the
tube, no pressure can back up inside the tube, and the switch
will never activate.
My WASHER does not fill. Water is coming in but it seems to
be siphoning the water down the drain.
This should not be to tough too fix. There are 2 causes for
this:
The drain hose is too low. The drain hose must be looped
higher than the water level in the washer. If it is too
low, raise it up. If it is impossible to raise the drain
hose, the cure for this is to install a siphon break in
your drain hose. The part is cheap and easy to install.
The drain hose must be able go get air in order to prevent
setting up a siphon action. If your drain hose is taped
to the plumbing pipe, or fits in too tight, it will siphon.
The drain hose must just drop into the plumbing pipe. If
it is impossible to give the drain hose air at the plumbing
pipe, use a siphon break in your drain hose.
How do I remove the cabinet from my direct drive Whirlpool/Kenmore/Roper/KitchenAid
washer?
If you have ever tried to check out the direct drive washer
manufactured by Whirlpool Corp., you found out pretty quickly
that you can't hardly do anything until the cabinet is removed.
The older Whirlpool Corp. washers with a belt do not have a
removable cabinet.
While it may sound like a pain to have to remove the cabinet,
in reality it is really simple, and it makes getting to the
parts a breeze.
All you need is a phillips screwdriver and a flat blade
screwdriver.
First step, of course is to unplug the machine. Then remove
the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the timer console.
The timer console in hinged in the back. Pull the console
forward slightly to clear the hooks on the bottom of the end
caps, and roll the console up from the bottom on it's hinges.
Under the console you will see a 3 wire harness that is
plugged into the top of the cabinet. Unplug this harness.
Using the flat blade screwdriver, pop off the 2 metal clips
that are holding the back panel to the top of the cabinet.
These clips are sort of "S" shaped, and are located near the
left and right edges of the top of the cabinet.
Grasp the cabinet on each side, pull the top of the cabinet
towards you to a 45 degree angle. Pull straight back on the
cabinet and it will slip right off.
To replace the cabinet
Put the cabinet up to the front edge of the base, open the
lid so you can see the inside bottom of the cabinet.
Tilt the cabinet to a 45 degree angle and slip the bottom
front lip of the cabinet under the front of the base (make
sure the console is hinged up).
Now let the cabinet go down. There are 2 dowels on each
side of the base that must match up with slots on the side
bottom lips of the cabinet.
After the cabinet is in place, look at the back and make
sure it is lining up properly on one side. Reinstall the "S"
bracket on that side.
Now move to the other side. Line it up properly and reinstall
the "S" bracket on that side.
Plug in the harness.
Lower the console, and reinstall the screws.
The clock on my STOVE started flashing F1
You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad. Here
is the procedure for determining your problem.
Disconnect power to stove
Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range
control or ERC).
Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This
will be a flat wire apx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when
power is turned back on.
Turn power back on to stove.
Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
If after apx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear
the beep, replace the touch pad.
NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock
as one part.
My GAS STOVE oven will not light. The glow bar (igniter)
is glowing, but it will not light..
I'll be glad to give you some pointers, but I always recommend
that consumers hire a trained tech to repair their gas appliances.
Gas appliances can be dangerous to work on if you are not trained
properly.
I think you either have a bad igniter (glow bar) or a bad safety
valve. Yes, the glow bar can be bad and still glow. It must
pull a predetermined amount of current in order for the safety
valve to open. On a tag on the safety valve there should be
an AMP or AMPERAGE or CURRENT rating, usually something like
3.2 amps. This is the amount of amperage that the glow bar must
pull in order to be good. You will need a clamp-on amp meter
to test the amperage draw of the glow bar. Clamp the meter around
either of the 2 lead wires at the back of the glow bar and turn
on the thermostat. Observe the amp draw. If it is within 2 percent
of the listed rating on the safety valve, the glow bar is good
and you should replace the safety valve. If the amp rating is
not within 2 percent of the listed rating, replace the glow
bar.
My GAS STOVE oven will not light. The oven pilot light is lit.
I'll be glad to give you some pointers, but I always recommend
that consumers hire a trained tech to repair their gas appliances.
Gas appliances can be dangerous to work on if you are not trained
properly.
Since your oven pilot light will light, your problem will be
either the oven thermostat or the oven safety valve. Get down
and look at the pilot light while you have someone turn on the
oven thermostat. If the thermostat is working properly, you
will see the flame on the pilot light get a little bit bigger
when the thermostat is turned on. If it does get bigger, then
the thermostat is working fine. Replace the oven safety valve.
If the flame does not get bigger on the pilot light when the
oven thermostat is turned on, replace the thermostat.
My REFRIGERATOR is not cold enough and I see ice building up
in my frost free freezer.
You probably have a problem with your defrost system. Click
HERE for troubleshooting details.
My REFRIGERATOR freezes everything even when set on the lowest
setting.
It sounds like you have a defective cold control (thermostat).
My DRYER just quit. Fuses and breaker are good, motor not running.
You most likely have a thermal cut-off that has opened. This
part is usually located on the heater element case. Checking
this part with a meter, you should get continuity. As the name
says, this is a THERMAL cut-off, meaning it cuts off if the
temperature of the element gets too high. While this part CAN
open for no apparent reason, it is very rare. The usual causes
for this part going out are:
Improper air flow, usually caused by the vent hose behind
the dryer being kinked or the vent system otherwise restricted,
The cycling and hi-limit thermostats have both gone bad,
causing the dryer to over heat.
When you purchase the thermal cut-off, it sometimes comes with
a hi-limit thermostat (depending on the brand), but the cycling
thermostat must always be purchased separately.
My GAS DRYER will not.......
Almost no one in our area uses a gas dryer, so we are not
familiar with them and therefore not qualified to answer your
question.
My AIR CONDITIONER constantly freezes up on the front coil.
The coils are clean and unobstructed.
There are a few causes for an air conditioner freezing up.
If the coil in front freezes up partially and not completely,
it is likely low on refrigerant. If it freezes up completely,
here are the possible causes:
Low ambient temperature. If the indoor temperature is
below about 75 degrees and your thermostat is turned up
so high that the AC compressor will not cycle off, it will
freeze up.
Low outside temperature. If the outside temperature is
below about 75 degrees and your thermostat is turned up
so high that the AC compressor will not cycle off, it will
free up.
Clogged filter restricting the air flow over the evaporator
coil.
Defective cycling thermostat. The compressor must be able
to cycle off periodically or it will ice up. The evaporator
temperature will fall below 32 degrees and freeze up
Trying to cool and area that is too large. This will cause
the compressor to run continuously. The evaporator temperature
will fall below 32 degrees and freeze up.
